The next time someone makes a comment about the questionability of eating sweetbreads, ask them if they ever eat hotdogs. Why something so delicious and delicate should be eschewed by Americans, I have no idea, but sweetbreads may be the … Continue reading
A stew is simply a braised dish in which the element(s) being braised is/are cooked with a small amount of liquid; the braised elements are cut into relatively small chunks. Most of us are familiar with meat stews, all of … Continue reading
You’ll learn a lot a lot about fish soups and stews if you make a bouillabaisse but it also helps to study soups and stews from other countries. The oldest and most simple approach to making a fish soup is … Continue reading
I mention sorrel because it is not appreciated as much as it should be. It looks a little bit like spinach—not as dark—but tastes distinctly sour as soon as you bite into a leaf. Most people think of it as … Continue reading
In France, sea urchins are served at places that serve oysters for about 10 times the price of the oysters. My first taste of a sea urchin was in such a place and I was immediately struck by the juxtaposition … Continue reading
Both a noun and a verb, to sauté something literally means to “jump” it. This makes sense in those cases in which sautéing is carried out by continuously shaking the pan so that what it is you’re sautéing is being … Continue reading
Most of us assume a hare is just a big rabbit. This is not the case at all as hare, which is very large relative to rabbit, has red meat instead of white and a full gamey and very distinct … Continue reading
While few foods are as prosaic as carrots, it’s hard to imagine cooking without them. They are part of the standard aromatic collection of vegetables that are traditionally added to stews, soups, and braises. They’re included here because I have … Continue reading
To the gastronome, these mouthful-size birds are likely to be known by their French name, ortolans. While hunting or capturing them is now illegal, a few manage to make their way to the tables of certain legendary restaurants. What makes … Continue reading
At it’s most basic, a broth is simply the result of cooking meat, vegetables, or seafood in water. Broth is either white or brown depending on whether the meat and/or other ingredients are first browned. Broth is ultimately simple to … Continue reading
